Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Jan 11, 2005 21:34:48 GMT -4
Very slim chances of finding a 130amp alternator out there anyways, he's not big in the used parts business, he mostly just takes cars to crush for the steel. The price of steel is very high right now so having a yard full of junkers is pure gold! ;D
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Scott
Senior Member
ohhh SNAP!!
Posts: 116
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Post by Scott on Jan 11, 2005 22:22:19 GMT -4
oh i already have the altenator..i just need a pullie and wire/plug.
but no worries, i'll find them no probs ;D
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Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Feb 5, 2005 15:43:33 GMT -4
Ok SS10, I got two Geo 3 cylinder alternators this morning for free ;D, one's got a Mitsubishi tag and the other is a Denso. They have one charge wire for the battery and a plug with 2 small wires on the back, what do they need to be hooked to one to the battery and one to a gauge? What did you do for a pulley setup for your engine? Is there any vehicles that I should look at in particular for a pulley for the alternator?
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Post by 88ss on Feb 5, 2005 22:16:24 GMT -4
Geo being a GM product, the wiring should be the same - the 1 charge wire and a 2 prong connector with male spades in the casing is 1 power and 1 for the field exciter. Both of those wires should be at 12+V. I think you use key on power to operate those. The other goes to your battery/starter.
In case you were still thinking of running with no alternator, the MSD box operates based on the voltage you supply it. The instructions online will tell you that the RPM range is affected by the voltage supply. With no alternator, the best you will have is 12V - with the alternator you have 14+V - ensures that you have your box operating properly. Food for thought
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Post by Site Admin on Feb 6, 2005 9:03:11 GMT -4
Don't forget that if you relocate the battery and install an external kill switch in the rear that you will need to hook the alternator directly to the battery so the alternator will not continue to charge and keep the car running when you hit the kill switch.
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Post by sam on Feb 6, 2005 12:06:31 GMT -4
Ok Stuart, first thing to do is take both of the alternators to Burnside and have them spun up on the test bench to see if they work and to see if one puts out more than the other. Ok now on to the wiring, the single wire stud on the back is 12v continuous power which you will get from the switched battery power side of your kill switch so that when you shut off the kill switch it will take the power away and be able to kill all electrical power to the alternator, if you don't do it this way then the alternator will continue to produce power therefore the kill switch will not do it's job. With the power to the alternator and a good ground take a test light and probe the wires in the 2 prong plug one will be dead and the other will light up, the one that lights up that wire gets 12v switched ignition power and the other wire can be run to the single stud wire on the alternator.The 12v switched wire on the 2 prong plug needs to have a light put in line so that it reduces the power enough that when the switch is on it will not burn out the regulator. I hope that this will help you,I am not really good at explaining to someone how to do things because Iam so use to just doing it or being there when they are doing it and helping them,so hopefully it is clear enough to understand.Just one more thing, Stuart if it was me I would do a mock up of the wiring system on the work bench that way there you know that the basic system is going to work before you run a bunch of wires in the car. Also I would suggest to run a small fuse box,gives a central location to wire from. As far as the pulley it depends on what you have for a bottom crank pulley, be it v or flat i am sure that the guys at Diesel Auto & Electric in Burnside will be able to gear you up or your friend at the junk yard , if he doesn't mind you removing pullies to try them. Mount the alternator as low on the engine as you can and run a single short belt off of the crank pulley. SAM
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Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Feb 6, 2005 14:01:56 GMT -4
This week I'm gonna fab up some brackets and mount the alternator on my engine while the engine is my stand. I got a short belt too. I'm very handy with automotvie wiring being a truck and transport mechanic after-all, so this will be a walk in the park. ;D The battery is going in the trunk so I'll hook the alternator to the post on the kill switch that has constant 12V power from the battery when the kill switch is in the off position. I was figuring on running two 2 guage cables from the run side of the kill switch - one for the starter/solenoid and one for a fuse panel supply rather than run wires to the trunk for every single electrical device. ....On a side note - I'm still not getting any notifiers from this board.
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Scott
Senior Member
ohhh SNAP!!
Posts: 116
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Post by Scott on Feb 7, 2005 21:18:32 GMT -4
Sounds good stuart! I just finished mounting this up today! ;D Near killed me to cut a hole in my nice paint
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Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Feb 7, 2005 22:20:24 GMT -4
Looks good....I haven't had as much time lately as I would have liked to work on the race car, I've been getting OT at work and with the new baby on the way, a month of school coming up and the race car I need the $$$.....LOL I'm gonna TRY to get some work done on it this week but who knows if I will or not. I was gonna get up early yesterday to work on the race car and about 5 minutes before I had the alarm set to go off the phone rang - I had to go to the shop for a service call - it took 3 hours and pretty much screwed my plans. ....Any volunteers to help me get this thing built?.....LOL ;D
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Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Feb 14, 2005 17:30:19 GMT -4
Good news, both of the 70amp Denso alternators I got at the junkyard work like new. ;D...Now I'll have a spare.
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Fordrelic
Full Member
Sponsored by: A & W Automotive
Posts: 83
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Post by Fordrelic on Feb 14, 2005 20:21:29 GMT -4
Hey Scott have plugs in stock, if you need a pulley give me a call. Stuart thought you wanted to keep the beast all ford whats with the denso alt, that would be like putting GM parts on it oops. lol Woody
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Post by sam on Feb 14, 2005 20:52:55 GMT -4
That is good news Stuart,both work . Just make sure you put that 12V light in the switched side so you don't end up toasting the regulator, you should be able to find a PTO light,would do the job perfectly. ;D SAM
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Stuart
Senior Member
Posts: 169
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Post by Stuart on Feb 14, 2005 21:27:03 GMT -4
Yup, already found one that will work. The only bad part was that D&A charged me $14 to test them....I woulda took them to Cappy tire and had them tested for free if I would have known. ...I just sent our parts gopher over there to drop them off on Friday....my fault for not asking first. ......I was not impressed . He drove right by Rand Auto Electric's new shop too....LOL...I just have to finish the bracketry for them now....piece a cake. ...as soon as it warms up some I'll start wiring the car, I must be sick - I actually enjoy automotive wiring.
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